Florence is a magical place to spend Christmas. With a picturesque dusting of snow across the hills of the Arno Valley, glittering store window displays along Via Tornabuoni, and festive lights throughout the city center, the holiday season in Florence is enough to put even Scrooge into the Christmas spirit.

The main highlight of December in Florence is the German Heidelberg Market at Santa Croce, where wooden huts selling ornaments, hand-made toys, ceramics, decorative paper lanterns, and a plethora of stocking stuffers pack the enormous piazza. Locals and visitors stroll through the market, enjoying traditional German snacks such as strudel, bratwurst, honey biscuits, and holiday confections. There’s a merry-go-round for the children and a merry-go-round-like bar for adults to sample German beers or a spiced vin brulè. The market opened at the end of November and will continue daily until December 18.

Add a few lights and some snow and Florence becomes even more magical at Christmas. (photo via Firenze Turismo)

Nearby, check out the massive Christmas tree in Piazza della Repubblica and the festively-decorated main pedestrian drag Via Callimala, stretching from the Duomo to Piazza della Signoria.  Hop on a city bus to Piazza della Libertà for some outdoor ice skating.  Just 6€ will let you rent skates and hit the ice from morning until 1am.

At night, check out one of many concerts—some even for free! Both classical, holiday, and liturgical music will be played nightly in venues across the Renaissance City. Composers, musicians, and programs vary dramatically, but highlights include concerts at the Church of St. Mark’s, concerts by Amici della Musica at Teatro della Pergola, Christmas concerts up in the hills at the Cathedral of Fiesole, and free classical music concerts at the Church of San Frediano in Cestello and the Church of San Firenze.

Be it day or night, there is plenty to do in Florence at Christmas!

Florence's stunning synagogue is where much of the city's Hanukkah highlights take place. (photo via wikimedia)

December in Italyisn’t all about Christmas.  The country has a storied history with the Jewish community, which started in 160 BC when the first Jews arrived in Rome straight from historic Israel, fleeing the Syrian King Antiochus.  That immigration began what would become the oldest Jewish outpost in Western Europe.  As a result, Hanukkah is celebrated just as vigorously in Italy as Christmas.

While Jews settled all over Italy, the majority lived (and still do) in Rome, inhabiting the Trastevere neighborhood until 1555 when they were forced into a ghetto on the other side of the Tiber in between the ruins of the Theater of Marcellus and the Isola Tiberina (close to Piazza Venezia).  It was there that some 13,000 Jews lived on seven acres for over 300 years, setting up restaurants, stores, schools, and a synagogue along Via del Portico d’Ottavia.  The neighborhood, its walls long demolished but charming narrow streets still in tact, has undergone its own renaissance, now thriving with art galleries and desirable apartments.  Members of the Jewish community who don’t live nearby still gather at the fountain in Piazza Mattei with its Bernini turtles and buy torta di ricotta (ricotta pie filled with sour cherries or chocolate) from the local bakery.  While history has changed all around it, Rome’s Jewish community has stayed true to its traditions.

Come Hanukkah, this year from December 20 to 28, Romans gather in Piazza Bernini at the 20-foot-high menorah and at a scaled-down version at Piazza Bologna.

Venice’s Hanukkah Bash in the Ghetto Square brings the world’s oldest Jewish ghetto to life with dancing, music, latkes, doughnuts, and a nightly menorah lighting.  The area, part of the Cannaregio neighborhood, once thrived with nearly 4,000 residents within a 2½ block radius.  The ghetto is remarkably in tact—particularly its five synagogues, three of which were squeezed into clusters of top-floor apartments.  In addition to the Jewish Museum and the Jewish Cemetery located on the Lido, check out the red and gold interior of the Levantine Synagogue, one of the few to be built on ground level.

Florence is full of Jewish history—much of which you can find at some of the city’s most famous attractions: from the doors of the Baptistery and the Duomo to Michelangelo’s David.  Visit the Jewish museum, Via dei Giudei (Street of the Jews), the Renaissance Jewish neighborhood, and Piazza della Reppublica, where the city’s ghetto once stood.  The highlight, though, is Florence’s magnificent synagogue, the interior of which is wood and bronze with marble floors and mosaics.  It’s there that you can join Florence’s strong Jewish community in Hanukkah celebrations and the lighting of the menorah.

We’ve only seen a glimpse of it so far, but winter is on its way.  And one of Italy’s best places for wintertime fun is in Val d’Aosta, the autonomous region tucked up into the country’s northwest corner between France and Switzerland.  Home to Italy’s Alps, including the famous Monte Bianco (or as the French say, Mont Blanc) and the Matterhorn, skiing reigns supreme in this region, particularly in its resort towns of Courmayeur and Cervinia.

Dotted with castles from the Middle Ages as well as German- and French-speaking towns, the region is crisscrossed by Alpine passes to France, including the Great St. Bernard Pass (home to the barrel-adorned dogs).  For those not prone to acrophobia, a cable car crosses the Alps from Courmayeur to Chamonix, France, offering breathtaking views—particularly of the Giant Glacier.

The region may be Italy’s smallest and least-populated, but Aosta, its capital, came in number six last year in a survey of Italy’s best places to live.  With its strong Roman ties and well-preserved ruins, it’s easy to understand why.

The food in Val d’Aosta is hearty—potatoes, polenta, and risotto.  The Valley is known for its cheeses like Fontina and its up-and-coming wines like Blanc de Mordex et de la Salle and Val d’Aosta (DOC).

After a season of top-notch skiing, Val d’Aosta’s snowy peaks give way to blossoming trails and Italy’s oldest national park, Gran Paradiso, which make for ideal hiking in spring and summer.  There are also plenty of year-round folk festivals and open-air markets throughout the region.

There’s plenty to do in Val d’Aosta—no matter the season.  But for now, enjoy the mountainous valley during its peak—winter.

Last week, we told you about different ways to celebrate Christmas in Rome.  Among those was celebrating Christmas Eve mass at the Vatican—probably the most sought-after ticket on Christmas.  Literally.  Reservations to get into the Vatican for Christmas Eve mass with the Pope need to be made in advance.  If you can’t get a seat for this highly-anticipated mass, you can observe it in St. Peter’s Square along with thousands of others watching on giant screens.

If you’re looking for something more intimate, and indoor, there are plenty of other options around Italy’s capital city.  Peppered with churches big and small, beautifully elaborate or simple, Rome is perhaps the most church-filled city in the world.  As a result, there are plenty of alternatives to being at the Vatican on Christmas.  Here are a few:

The Christmas Eve midnight mass at the Pantheon, after the Vatican, is one of Rome’s most unique.  A choir and Gregorian chants under the stars add a magical effect.  Seats fill up quickly, so arrive early.

It’s said that the first Christmas mass ever was held at Santa Maria Maggiore, so it’s only fitting to attend midnight mass at this huge, marble-interior church.

Midnight mass at St. Paul’s Within the Walls includes a musical prelude featuring both secular and spiritual music.

The mood at Santa Mariain Trastevere is different than at other churches aroundRome.  Midnight mass there is so lively that it’s often broadcast across Italy.

No matter where you celebrate Christmas Eve, be sure to include a paseggiata (walk) through St. Peter’s Square to take in the Christmas spirit, nativity display, and festive lights.  There’s nothing like Christmas in Rome.

Lippi's "Madonna in adorazione del Bambino" is one of the 40 pieces on display during the current Lippi and Botticelli exhibit in Rome.

The current exhibit at Scuderie del Quirinale in Rome showcases two of Italy’s premier artists of the 15^th Century: Filippino Lippi and Sandro Botticelli.  While the exhibit mainly focuses on the career and artistic style of Lippi, it also highlights the ways in which the two artistic geniuses’ lives overlapped: after being a student of Lippi’s father, Botticelli then mentored Lippi.  As the younger Lippi rose to fame, a rivalry between student and teacher emerged.

“Filippino Lippi and Sandro Botticelli in Florence in the 1400s,” which runs through January 15, features more than 40 of Lippi’s works compared with those of other artists—namely Botticelli.  Among the pieces are the Lippi/Botticelli collaboration “La Derellita,” which is rarely shown to the public; “Madonna in adorazione del Bambino,” one of Lippi’s earlier works that seemingly jumps off of the canvas with its vibrant colors; and Botticelli’s “Adorazione dei Magi.”

If you can’t make it to the Rome exhibit, there are plenty of other Lippi and Botticelli works on permanent display at Florence’s Uffizi and Accademia galleries, as well as at multiple churches around the country, including Santo Spirito in Florence, Basilica di San Domenico in Bologna, and the Sistine Chapel.

Typical primi piatti--complete with un mezzo litro di vino bianco and another of vino rosso.

Dining out can sometimes be challenging in your homeland—forget about trying to narrow down menu items listed in a foreign language.  And since one can’t really get to know Italy without sampling (a lot) of Italian food, it’s imperative to order a meal that will leave you dreaming for more.  Dining anywhere should be an enjoyable experience, not a stressful one.  So take these tips for deciphering an Italian menu and dining out in the country of cuisine.

Italians eat very differently than Americans.  Don’t expect the experience you get at your neighborhood Italian restaurant—plates in Italy aren’t piled high with spaghetti and meatballs and don’t usually come with the meat, starch, and veggie all together.  After the antipasti or appetizers, meals are broken down into primo piatto and secondo piatto, or first plate and second plate.  For primo piatto, expect soups, pasta, and risotto.  For secondo piatto, enjoy meats, including pollo (chicken), vitello (veal), maiale (pork), coniglio (rabbit), pesce (fish), and carne (beef).  For side dishes, look to the contorno section of the menu, and end the meal with a dolce.

As for beverages, you’ll get the choice between natturale or frizzante (natural or carbonated), and then indulge in some wine.  While you can order a bottle or glass of wine from a list, going with a carafe of the house wine is sometimes the best bet. Ask for un mezzo (half) or un litro (one liter) of vino bianco or rosso.

The last bit you should know about eating at an Italian restaurant has to do with the bill, or il conto.  It’s a rare occurrence that you will be rushed out of a restaurant or that the waiter will bring the check without you having asked for it.  When you do get the check, you will see a coperto or cover charge per person that goes toward the bread and service.  You may leave an additional tip on top of the coperto, but it’s not necessary.

Buon appetito!

The Vatican glows during Christmas. (photo by Hello, I am Bruce via flickr)

Christmas in Rome is lively yet peaceful.  Italians bustle around the city preparing for the celebrations ahead of them while twinkling white lights along the city’s shopping thoroughfares add festive flair.  Vendors sell roasted chestnuts on nearly every corner and the capital’s main piazzas are overtaken with holiday entertainment, including nativity scenes, seasonal markets, Christmas trees at Piazza Venezia and the Colosseum, and even an ice skating rink at Castel Sant’Angelo.  Christmas day is usually quiet, as Romans gather with family for a traditional Christmas lunch.  With few tourists visiting at Christmastime, you will have Rome pretty much to yourself.  Here are some ways to celebrate Christmas—Roman style.

Zampognari
Keep an ear out for strolling zampognari.  These shepherds from the Abruzzo region dress in native sheepskin vests and felt hats and play bagpipes around the city—particularly near Via Condotti and the Spanish Steps.  So take advantage of this Roman tradition while getting in some last-minute shopping!

The Vatican
St. Peter’s is a no-brainer when it comes to places to explore during Christmastime.  A towering tree and life-size nativity scene are two main attractions, drawing thousands of visitors.  While you’ll need tickets to get into the Vatican  for the Pope’s Christmas Eve midnight mass, you can observe it on giant screens in St. Peter’s Square for free.  Arrive before noon the next day to catch a glimpse of the Pope in person as he appears at his apartment window to give a Christmas blessing.

Piazza Navona
Rome’s biggest Christmas market is held at Piazza Navona, as stands selling games, toys, candies, crafts, artwork, and ornaments circle the famous Fountain of the Four Rivers.  Children beam while riding the Christmas carousel and when Santa and La Befana visit.  Festive lights and music help transform the piazza into a winter wonderland.

Christmas at the Auditorium
To add some Christmas cheer to your evenings in Rome, take in a concert during Christmas at the Auditorium (December 8 – January 8). Arrive at Auditorium Parco della Musica early to explore the food stands, holiday market, and ice skating.

Traveling by train is one of the best ways to see Italy—rolling through the vast countryside and right into the city of your choosing.  Depending on if you take a local train or the sleek Frecciarossa or Frecciargento express trains, you can get from Rome to Florence in 1½ hours and Florence to Venice in under two.  Whether you ride first class or coach, train travel in Italy is generally comfortable, easy on the wallet and the itinerary, and, unless you’re faced with a sciopero (strike), stress-free.

Riding the rails is particularly helpful to our independent travelers creating itineraries or opting for one of our carefully-planned independent tours.  It’s also great for daytrippers looking to get out of the big city and into a smaller nearby town.  For example, riding the train from Florence can easily get you to Pisa, Bologna, Lucca, Viareggio, or Perugia for the day.

Train travel is even sweeter over the next few weeks as Trenitalia, Italy’s main train operator, is running promotions that deeply slash train prices.  Here’s a quick rundown:

Daytrippers can take advantage of flat “andata e ritorno in giornata” fares (one-day roundtrip) on the Frecciarossa and Frecciargento trains (109€ for second class, 149€ for first class).

Saturday travelers get two-for-one fares through December 10 using the “Sabato Italiano 2×1” promotion.

Families always save 50% on tickets for children under 12 while children under 4 travel for free, but the “Offerta Familia” promotion can get those discounts plus 20% off on the adults traveling in the group.

“MINI fares” offer seats at up to 60% off on nearly every route on every class of train.

In order to take advantage of these great promotions, be sure to buys your tickets at least two days in advance—of course, the earlier you purchase, the better!  Of course, we can help you purchase the tickets and plan your journey through Italy!

Leonardo da Vinci's self-portrait will be on display for the first time ever this fall in Turin. (photo via wikimedia)

Leonardo da Vinci: We all know his name and have seen his face through images of a self-portrait, but few have had the chance to see that infamous work in person.  Until now.  For the first time ever, the Renaissance genius’s self-portrait will be on display at Reggia di Venaria Reale, just outside of Turin.  From November 18 to January 29, see the maestro up close while learning more about him and the artists, writers, and filmmakers he inspired.

Broken down into three sections, the exhibit features 30 original da Vinci drawings mainly focusing on his precision in replicating facial expressions, human anatomy, nature, and machines.  The first section offers a biographical look at the artist through his drawings, including the world-renowned Codex on the Flight of the Birds and the featured self-portrait.  The next section shows da Vinci’s transformation into Renaissance icon through 15^th and 16^th century works by artists who tried to emulate the master’s style.  In the final section, da Vinci is seen through the lens of contemporary art with works by Warhol, Spoerri, Nitsch, and Recalcati.  The section opens with a tribute by French artist Marcel Duchamp, who notably put a goatee and mustache on a replica of da Vinci’s Mona Lisa.  Closing out the exhibition is a multimedia area featuring a full-size digital reproduction of The Last Supper, allowing visitors to study the gestures and facial features of the masterpiece.

Normally the self-portrait and Codex on the Flight of the Birds are kept our of the spotlight in Turin’s Biblioteca Reale, and while seeing The Last Supper high on the wall of Santa Maria delle Grazie in Milan is an unforgettable and truly awe-inspiring experience, getting an up-close look at some of the most prized works by Italian Renaissance hero Leonardo da Vinci is a chance too good to pass up.

What is you favorite da Vinci work?

See how Audrey Hepburn really lived her life in Rome at the new exhibit "Audrey in Rome." (photo via wikimedia)

Watching the classic romantic comedy Roman Holiday is a great way to get a quick fix and feel like you’re in Italy.  As Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn whiz through the streets of Rome on their Vespa, it’s easy to let go and imagine yourself roaming down glamorous Via Condotti or strolling next to the Coliseum.  Now, while you’re in Rome, you can check out some of the props used in the classic film—and see some of Audrey Hepburn’s personal effects and candid photos.

The new exhibit “Audrey in Rome” lets fans get a sneak peek into the starlet’s life, some of which she spent living in the Eternal City with her husband and son.  The show, which coincides with the 50^th anniversary of another classic Hepburn film, Breakfast at Tiffany’s, is housed at the Ara Pacis until December 4.  Some of the proceeds from the exhibit will benefit UNICEF, an organization to which Helpburn served as goodwill ambassador.

Among the items on display are 150 photos of the British actress in Rome—including some from movie sets and others of Hepburn going about her daily life—videos, costumes, and clothing.  The star’s trademark oversized sunglasses, billowing scarves, and petite dresses are on display alongside metallic pumps, fashionable coats, and her passport—all of which she needed during her time in Rome.

And as you admire the classic green Vespa from the film, let go once again and enjoy your own Roman holiday.