…must come to an end.

The moon rises in Rome as the sun sets on my Italian adventure

Being back in the States after nearly three months in Italy is strange.  I go to say “Ciao” and “Grazie” to people but have to stop myself, and although family and friends chuckle when I accidentally slip “Si” into conversation, I secretly like it—my own verbal souvenir.  I am overwhelmed by 10 pages worth of menu choices at restaurants—give me the basic pasta, meat, and sides, please!  Speaking of which, pizza here is an embarrassment, with that browned shredded mozzarella cheese and thick, doughy crust.  Where’s the super-thin crust drowned in olive oil?  And then there’s the jet lag—fighting to keep my eyes open at 8:00pm and waking up every morning at 5:30am.  But it was all worth it.  Way worth it.  Here are the reasons why I love Italy (and you should too!):

1. A visit to Rome, Florence, or Pompeii means visiting the past and walking into the textbooks of my school years. Seeing them in person helps it all make sense, and yet brings up more questions to be answered.
   

   Palazzo Vecchio in Florence

2. Venice and Verona let my imagination take a trip of its own, envisioning medieval maidens and cape-wearing Casanovas wandering the narrow streets with me.
   

   Gondolas just add to Venice's charm

3. Cinque Terre and Sorrento unfathomably cling to Italy’s west coast cliffs, offering breathtaking views and the chance to step into a postcard.
   

   Manarola in Cinque Terre is as quaint as you can get.

4. Every region specializes in a different cuisine and every city has its own signature dish: Bistecca Fiorentina in Florence, risotto in Milan, pesto in Liguria, spaghetti alla carbonara in Rome, pizza in Napoli, seafood in Sicily.  Each location is more delicious than the next!
5. The pause between primi and secondi piatti offers the perfect chance to regroup, ensuring plate-clearing, dining success.
   

   Yes, there is still room to eat after primi like these!

6. A quarter liter of house wine costs less than a can of Coca-Cola.
7. Despite a delicious, home-cooked Thanksgiving feast before me yesterday, I still dreamt of pumpkin ravioli in Parma.
8. Though small in comparison to other countries, Italy’s climate varies greatly—the winter brings snow to the Dolomites but sun to Siracusa.
9. Italians are some of the most kind, genuine, helpful, passionate and caring people I’ve ever met.  And they seem to get nicer as you travel from north to south!
10. While every country has its blemishes, Italy’s are outweighed by its gems, and the best part is, despite having spent months traveling and exploring the best (and not so best) that Italy has to offer, there is still plenty more for me to discover…and I can’t wait!

Thanks for being a part of my journey these past three months.  Until next time…

Mi chiamo Meredith e sono una "italophile".

Arrivederci!
Meredith

I’ve never been on a true roadtrip before–packed into a car with friends, stopping whenever the mood strikes, staying at divey motels, and eating on-the-go food that leaves you sick afterwards–so I didn’t know what to expect when I picked up my rental car in Palermo for an along-the-coast tour of Sicily.  Thankfully, traditional roadtrip rules haven’t applied.  Driving through Sicily, though stressful at times with erratic moped drivers and what are surely the most narrow streets on the planet, has been an absolute delight, opening my eyes to the beauty of both this island and its residents.

After Palermo, I headed west to San Vito lo Capo, a quaint beach town that was fairly deserted considering the time of year.  But that didn’t stop me from heading to the water to put my toes into the Mediterranean–the bright sun on my shoulders fought off the chill at my feet.  Then it was off to Trapani, a great city that has a wonderful pedestrain-friendly historical center.  It was there, on a Saturday afternoon, that the whole town seemed to gather–window shopping, greeting each other, strolling arm and arm in the cool night air.  This unabashed sense of community was a truly magical thing to see and be a part of. 

On the way to Agrigento, I stopped off to see the Greek ruins at both Segesta and Selinunte–which really made me appreciate modern technology.  How was it possible that people in BC times lifted huge limestone rocks with just some rope and a few pulleys?  The hilltop city of Agrigento offers a wonderful view of its famous Valley of the Temples, the ocean its backdrop.  The remarkable Greek temples there are absolutely huge and for the most part in great condition.  Nearby was a fantastic archaeological museum, full of ancient statues, pottery, jewelry, artwork, and reconstructed Atlas statues that were once a part of the structure of the temple of Zeus.  Visiting the museum after visiting the temples was a great way to make sense of it all and bring the ancient civilization into perspective. 

There were even more Greek ruins in Siracusa, most notable the massive amphitheater.  But one of the highlights had to be the  Ear of Dionysus–a huge ear-shaped cave that made the most outrageous echoes.  And in the island neighborhood of Ortigia, the Piazza del Duomo glistened elegantly in the rain.  The inside of the unassuming Duomo is a simple and stunning stone interior, but as you make your way around the cathedral, there are elaborate chapels that greatlycontrast the church itself–both are equally beautiful.  

This morning, I reached my final destination in both Sicily and of my entire trip: Catania. It’s a busy place, where driving is nearly impossible but shopping is endless with two enormous street markets (open daily) and the shop-lined Via Etnea.

While Catania is a bit of a hectic place to end two-and-a-half fantastically relaxing months in Italy, I am more than thrilled to be here.  From the short-sleeve weather to the heaping plates of food, and the kindest people I’ve met so far, it really is a place that sums up Italy as a whole and it makes me want to rewind back to September and start this adventure all over again.

Sicily, while sometimes ignored by tourists and brushed off by locals and often pigeonholed with stereotypes, is a place that has captured my heart and is on the top of my list of places to visit again!

Ciao!

Sorrento

This week was a rainy one in Italy.  So rainy, and with such harsh sea conditions, that I never made it to Capri.  For three days straight, all ferries to the island were cancelled, but it was all right—part of the beauty of Napoli is its proximity to so many of Italy’s main attractions.  So, instead of island-hopping, I took a 75-minute train ride to Sorrento, just on the other side of the Gulf of Naples.

Even on a cloudy, drizzly day, Sorrento’s beauty shined through.  From the bright pink and yellow buildings and the colorful ceramics adorning both street corners and shop windows to the sunshiney glow from endless bottles of limoncello and the citrus bursts of orange trees growing everywhere I looked.   Sorrento’s streets bustled with visitors dining on seafood at the restaurants of Marina Grande, scooping up souvenirs from the quaint stores lining the narrow Via Cesareo, and going on a spending spree through the boutiques of Corso Italia.  All of this in low season.  I can only imagine the excitement and the magic that must come when this seaside town is in full summertime swing.  Still, something must be said for traveling during this time of year.  While maybe I wasn’t able to take full advantage of the beaching and boating that is an integral part of the Sorrento experience, I was still able to see all of the town’s sights—including amazing views of the ocean once the fog lifted on my last day—all without having to wait for a table or in a line or to take a photo.  It was almost as if I had Sorrento all to myself.  And it was perfect.

Last night, I left Italy’s mainland for Sicily on an overnight ferry from Napoli to Palermo.  The ferry was actually a mini cruise ship, with two restaurants, a huge lounge area, and two game rooms on board.  The trip was absolutely painless, and when I woke up in my cabin, there was already daylight over Sicily’s capoluogo.  Spending the afternoon in Palermo has left me spellbound.  It is not at all what I expected it to be.  Instead of being a grimy city with suspicious-looking people on every corner, it is actually a clean, beautiful, safe, oversized town with amazing architecture, a wonderful seaside park, and extraordinary gardens all around.  Being in Palermo is refreshing and I’m regretting having only booked one night here.  On the other hand, though, if one of the island’s biggest cities is this spectacular, I can only imagine the gems that lie ahead in the days to come during my tour around Sicily!

Earlier this week, I arrived in Napoli, a huge city that has struggled with its identity and its reputation, and to be honest, as I stepped off of the train at Stazione Centrale, I wasn’t too optimistic about the days that lay ahead of me and started making a mental list of all of the day trips I could possibly make using Napoli as my home base.

But after settling into my hotel and hitting the busy streets where traffic lights are apparently considered a mere suggestion, I have found Napoli to be rather charming, and certain neighborhoods outright gorgeous.  The streets of Chiaia bustle with shoppers ducking into one trendy boutique after another; the massive Piazza Plebiscito is awe-inspiring during both day and night; and Castel Nuovo solemnly stands guard over the port.

And then there’s Napoli’s main attraction: the pizza.  I think it’s fair to say that during the past two months, I’ve eaten my fair share of this country’s most beloved pie, topped with everything from veggies to meats and even French fries—“junk” as some pizza places here would say.  Still, there’s something special about eating pizza in the city where it was actually born.  Eating a pizza Margherita at Brandi, where Queen Margherita herself first sampled the tomato, mozzarella, and basil concoction and deemed it delicious, thereby becoming the namesake of Italy’s trademark pizza.  But after all of this baked goodness, is it possible that I’m getting pizza-d out?  Only time will tell.

Though I have come around to Napoli and all she has to offer, I have, indeed, taken some day trips.  The first was to the island of Ischia, which I hear is comparable to Capri (I’ll let you know in next week’s post after I make that day trip).  Just a 45-minute ferry ride from Napoli, Ischia is an absolute dream with six distinct regions, each with their own dialect; a small island that houses a castle, which offers a breathtaking view of the main island; endless picturesque downtown areas with unique shops and cafes; and even a thermal bay, where the ocean water is warm year-round.

Today, I went to the ruins of Pompei, which are simply astounding.  First of all, the site is huge.  Strolling along the ancient roads, it’s hard to imagine that people once lived there, and then in an instant, they lost everything: their homes, their farms, and some even their lives to a volcano that rises innocently in the distance.  By the looks of what remains, the people of Pompei weren’t all that different from us: they worked, went to the market, went to church, went to the theater (there are three within the excavation site), and at the end of the day, they made their way down the stone streets to their homes—some near the center of town, some on the outskirts, all within the city walls.  Being in this sacred place is humbling, educational, and surreal.  To imagine that the peaceful place I found today was once torn with chaos and fear brought upon by Mother Nature herself sends chills up my spine.

So, Napoli, I’m sorry.  I take back what I previously thought about you and promise to keep spreading the good word!

You always hear the phrase “Rome was not built in a day,” and as my two weeks in the Eternal City draw to a close, I realize that this old adage is absolutely true.  As I roam the streets, it is easy to see the layers of progress this city has undergone.  From the ancient–built in the years of Caesar–to the Baroque, the starkly plain architecture of the Fascist era, the clean and modern Auditorium by Renzo Piano.  And Rome is still evolving, still developing with cranes and construction sites lining classic buildings and streets, a constant reminder that one of the oldest cities in existence is not very ancient any more.

Even coming from New York City, the so-called capital of the world, it has been so hard for me to get a real grasp of Rome.  From the Spanish Steps to Trastevere, The Vatican to Villa Borghese, the Colosseum to Piazza del Popolo–and then the off-the-beaten-path areas well beyond the historical center–Rome is mind-bogglingly huge.

For that reason, I have found it extremely useful to have a game plan each morning of the things I want to see that day. Sure, there are plenty of streets to roam in this sprawling metropolis, but I know that if I were to leave my afternoons totally to chance, I would get so distracted and end up not seeing half of the things I planned.

But, on the other hand, wandering has brought me to some wonderful places like St. Ignatius church, which is very unassuming from the outside, but inside, it is an absolute masterpiece with ceilings painted in such a way that they seem to go on forever, huge marble statues, and elaborately-decorated sanctuaries.  Had I not happened upon the church at the moment when I felt like taking a break from walking, I never would have known that such a gorgeous place existed.

By far, Rome has been the most awe-inspiring city I have visited so far because of its size alone.  Rome, as you know and as I have learned first hand, was  not built in a day, and while you can definitely see all of its main attractions in a day or two, there is no way that someone could truly get a grasp of its still-existing glory without staying here for years!

This week, I left the peaceful countryside of Umbria for the bustling capital of Rome, where I will be taking Italian language classes for two weeks.  So far, it is going great–I am learning the bones of this beautiful language in hopes that one day I too will be able to sing the songs of Italian conversation.

Rome is a truly unique city, where the old (and often ancient) blends in seamlessly with the new: the stark contrast of the ruins of the Imperial Forum that directly abut the massive and elaborately exaggerated monument to Vittorio Emmanuele; crowded, loud restaurants just feet away from the solemn, classic Pantheon; sleek cars whizzing over ornate bridges.  That it all can stand together and function as a whole city is a bit overwhelming.  In Rome, crossing a street means jumping through centuries.

So far, I have seen the astounding Trevi Fountain, the incredible Colosseum (whose lower level just recently reopened for the first time in decades), Piazza Navona, Piazza del Popolo, and the charming neighborhood of Trastevere.

There is so much more to see in the next week, and I do not know that I will get a chance to see it all.  If it is even possible.  After all, Rome is one of those cities where there is always something new to explore or old to revisit, always something to be learned, and always another experience waiting for you–no matter how many times you have visited this wonderful Eternal City.

After so much time on the go, this week has been all about relaxation.  I’m in Umbria, staying at an agriturismo, which, in short, means I’m a guest in somebody’s farmhouse, on property full of olive groves, fruit trees, herb gardens, chickens, geese, and beauty.  Aside from lounging around in my rustic room, taking in the views of my surroundings, I’ve been keeping busy with bike rides to small towns on nearby Lake Trasimeno and I’ve taken a few day trips to the nearby hilltop towns of Todi, Gubbio, and Assisi.  They are all equally beautiful—Medieval in nature with winding alleyways and steep stone staircases to get you from one level of town to another.  And when you reach the top, they all offer amazing views of the Umbrian countryside.

Today, I went to Perugia for the annual Eurochocolate Festival.   While my dreams of floating Willy Wonka-style down a river of chocolate didn’t come to fruition, I was beyond thrilled to stroll down Corso Vannucci from Piazza Italia to Piazza IV Novembre, sampling my way from one chocolate booth to the next.  From brand names like Perugina and Lindt to small, local vendors and artisans, the amount and variety of bonbons, chocolate pizzas, chocolate-covered fruit, hot chocolate that is the delicious equivalent of warm pudding, liquor-filled chocolates, and truffles was astounding.  The sweet smells of chocolate wafted out of the booths as candy-themed songs like “A Spoonful of Sugar” blared from speakers all along Piazza Italia.

After hours of zigzagging my way through Perugia’s Eurochocolate wonderland, I can’t help but feel that life is just as sweet

In Piazza San Marco

There are two words that come to mind to describe each of the cities I visited this week: magic and romance.

Verona and Venice seem like fantasy worlds created with the sole purpose of enchanting visitors while offering the chance to step into a fairytale.  It seems impossible that people actually live in these towns, yet I’ve seen them—buying fruits and vegetables at the market, opening their shops early in the morning, preparing some of the most beautiful plates of food I’ve ever seen.  As they carry out everyday tasks like the rest of us, I wonder if they even realize what special places they call home—or is riding a boat around town just normal life?

Verona made the prefect stopover between the busy towns of Milan and Venice—ideal for a day trip or one overnight.  Rich in history as if it’s stuck in time, it’s easy to let your imagination run free as you stroll along Verona’s marble streets gazing into shop windows and taking in the classic architecture.  If you close your eyes, you can almost picture the Capulets and Montegues walking right beside you through Piazza delle Erbe, past the Roman Arena, and a long the Adige River.

And then there’s Venice…

My first reaction to seeing the Grand Canal, busy with gondolas, water taxis, and water buses, is always a sigh.  To think that a place so exponentially different from anywhere else in the world bustles while I’m at home watching reality TV is surreal.  To put my map down and explore this amazing place is even better, because while getting lost in Venice is easy, it is also a pleasure.  Every turn yields another side street that suddenly seems to end but instead makes a sharp turn toward a bridge that safely leads to the other side of a canal.  While I hustle down alleyways barely wider than my shoulders, I can’t help but imagine that I’m following Casanova, dressed in a long black cape, as he slinks his way to another conquest.  At any moment, I fully expect to collide with a masked woman wearing an elegant silk ball gown on her way to a gala.

But then sitting in Piazza San Marco, with the pink Doge’s Palace and the tall brick bell tower in sight, people and pigeons crowding around to get the best view, brings me back down to earth—or at least as close as one can get while in this magical place called Venice.

Pumpkin ravioli left my mouth watering and my stomach full in Parma.

This week has been filled with food and fun—both in Italy’s small towns and big towns.

I started out in Parma—small, easily navigable, quaint, simple, and home to the best food I’ve had yet in Italy.  Parma should definitely make the cut on anyone’s Italy itinerary.

Strolling along the cobblestone streets from Parco Ducale to the National Museum of Archaeology, I saw all of the big sights in Parma—including the baptistery made out of pink marble—in two days.  After dinner on Saturday night, I took advantage of a big art festival being held all throughout the streets with vendors selling their hand-made jewelry, clothing, artwork, and food alongside stores that kept their doors open late into the night.  The same streets that had made for a peaceful walk during the afternoon were suddenly packed with people having a good time.  Sleepy Parma came alive for this festival and it was amazing!

Now let’s talk specifics about the food. First of all, the Prosciutto di Parma was by far the best prosciutto I’ve ever had.   It was fresh–we’re talking leg of pig on a deli slicer being cut per order kind of fresh.  It wasn’t salty, fatty, or stringy like prosciutto you find anywhere else—it just had a simple, barely there taste.  Next, the parmigiano cheese.  So flavorful, again not salty, but creamy and almost tastebud-overwhelming to eat an entire chunk.  Everywhere I went, I ordered pumpkin ravioli–a regular looking ravioli, but stuffed with sweet, pumpkiny goodness–simply served with butter and cheese.   I also tried the real eggplant parmesean, which involved no breadcrumbs of any kind, but otherwise resembled its American counterpart.

I was sad to leave Parma for the small town of Piacenza, but my waistline was happy.  There, I got a real taste of Italy.  Piacenza was a slow town that I easily navigated on a rented bike.

From small to big, now I’m in Milan—a bustling city that seems to be a contradiction to the rest of Italian culture.  It’s fast-paced, huge, bustling.  The people here are dressed to the nines and the Duomo is outstanding, with what seems like thousands of spires jutting into the sky.  I went to see a production of the Verdi opera “La Traviata,” and this morning, I took in the incredible DaVinci’s “The Last Supper.” It has definitely been a great first few days in Milan.

Does this trip sound good to you?  Guido at Ciao Italy & Caranni Tours can give you insider advice to help plan your own itinerary!

Sunset over Manarola

This week, I stepped into a postcard.  The perfectly crystal-clear, teal waters off of Cinque Terre and the picturesque villages nestled into the Cliffside kept me captivated.  The sunsets from my Manarola hotel room, the staggeringly green hills of grapevines and olive groves, and the jagged rocks jutting out of the Ligurian Sea gave me reason to completely relax and truly enjoy all of the nature around me.  If you’ve never had a desire to visit Cinque Terre, I urge you to change your mind.

The five seaside villages connected by footpaths and a train are quaint yet vibrant. The pastel-colored houses are still inhabited by locals, despite the number of tourists milling about the narrow, steep alleys that weave their way through the buildings until they bring you out onto an unexpected hilltop that has the most breathtaking views of endless ocean.

The town of Manarola nestled into the cliffside--and me!

Though upon first glance, each maritime village seems the same, they all have a unique personality: Riomaggiore, the southernmost town) is busy with tourists, but once you round the large bend to get into town, you’ll find plenty of restaurants, as well as shops offering scuba lessons.  Down the romantic, Cliffside walkway called Via dell’ Amore is Manarola, a place where sunbathers and fishermen alike spend hours at the marina.  Next is Corniglia, the only town not directly on the sea, but instead perched atop a craggy cliff looking out at the green waters below—its port (once you make your way down about seven minutes worth of stairs) is the best for swimming.  Vernazza caters toward visitors while maintaining a busy marina where boaters motor in and out all afternoon.  And, finally, Riomaggiore is home to the area’s true beach, which stretches along its entire shoreline—but be prepared for rocks instead of sand on your walk to the water.

Seafood is spotlighted on every menu in every town, with the freshest options going the quickest.  And for non-fish-eaters, pesto sauce and gnocchi are local specialties.

So, yes, Cinque Terre is everything you’ve heard people say it is: beautiful, romantic, and charming. And with its perfect balance of sport (hiking and swimming), relaxation (beach), and iconic scenery, there are few places in Italy—or the rest of the world for that matter—quite like it.

Ciao!